Crochet Basics: Making A Swatch

Why Do I Need To Make A Swatch?

Erm, what is a swatch?

I’m sure that you can picture the scene:

• you spend a good amount of time searching the internet for the perfect crochet pattern
• you read through the instructions and you decide that you can do everything listed there
• you skim the section that says ‘gauge’
• not really sure what a ‘gauge’ is anyways
• you ignore the section that says ‘gauge’
• you order the perfect yarn from your stash
• you make the ‘perfect’ item
• but it doesn’t come out anywhere near the size that is given in the pattern.

I’ve done this many times. Luckily the items I made weren’t that different from the sizes given in the original pattern, but that is beside the point. Like I said, I was lucky that the way I crochet produced a similar size to the crochet designer’s item.

And that is where the swatch comes in. It is the simplest thing and will save you a lot of heartaches. But first of all, a few definitions related to a swatch:

1. Tension – we all crochet to a different ‘tightness’ with our stitches and it is often caused by how we hold the yarn. Some of us hold the yarn tightly, which makes our stitches tighter and smaller. Some of us do the opposite and hold the yarn loosely making our stitches bigger and looser. You can imagine what the impact of this will be on the finished item – the tighter your tension, the more stitches you will need to get to the sizes in the pattern.
2. Gauge – your ‘gauge’ is looking at how many stitches you personally make over a certain area. Logically, the tighter your tension, the higher your gauge as you would make more stitches than someone with a looser tension.

A swatch takes these two aspects and gives a way in which you can identify exactly what your own personal gauge isand can then compare this to the gauge given in the pattern. It is simply a square of crochet that you make before starting the pattern proper using the same stitch, hook size and yarn that is used in the pattern. The standard size for a crochet swatch 4×4 inches or 10×10 cm.

Using the swatch, you can then work out your gauge.

“Oh no. I still have to work out my gauge??” I hear you cry. Don’t worry. All you have to do is count the number of rows from top to bottom and the number of stitches from left to right.

In this example, I made a swatch of plain double crochet, using a DK yarn and a size 5mm hook. For yours, you would use the yarn, hook and stitch that is in the pattern you are following. Then, just by counting, I worked out that my gauge is 19 rows and 15 double crochets (single crochet in US terminology) in each row. So when you look at a pattern and it says something like “19 x 15DC = 10×10″ you know that your gauge matches that given in the pattern.

I have made a small gauge measure out of a piece of yellow coloured card and cut a hole in the middle that measures 10×10 cm I can then just place the swatch I have made under the card and work out my gauge from there. You can also just use a ruler.

If you have completed your swatch for the pattern and it doesn’t match the gauge given in the pattern, the most common advice is for you to change the size of the hook that you are using and then make a second swatch. If you have a tighter tension, go up a hook size and if your tension is looser, go down a hook size. Granted, this may be a little time-consuming to do as you may need to experiment with a few different hook sizes before you get it right, but it will be worth it.

The last few thoughts on swatching:

• If the finished item contains more than one stitch type – for example one stitch for the main body and another for the cuffs – you will need to make a separate swatch for each one.
• you may also need to take your gauge before and after blocking your swatch if the pattern you are following requires it. Blocking may not massively change the results of your gauge but it might do. Generally, the designer will tell you in their pattern whether the swatch needs to be done before, after or both.
• The gauge you work at isn’t only just important to the final measurements of your item. It also has an impact on the amount of yarn you will need to finish it. The pattern will state how much yarn you will need to complete the project but this is based on the designer’s gauge, not yours. Your gauge will cause you to use more or less yarn than is stated.
• Your gauge will also have an impact on the way an item hangs or drapes. For example, a tighter gauge will make an item stiffer which might not be what is needed for the finished item.
• If you are working on an item that isn’t worked in rows; a granny square or flowers, for example, the gauge may be worked out differently, such as by the size of one granny square or flower. Make sure that you carefully read the instructions to ensure you are working to the right measurements.
• Gauge is always given on the band of the yarn you are using but if yours doesn’t match theirs, you won’t get the same amount of metres/yards from the yarn as they are suggesting.
• Make a swatch that is bigger than the standard size given, then measure your gauge at different points on the swatch, as your tension will change throughout.
• Sometimes, you can cheat a little. I recently made a crocheted top that started the pattern with the sleeves before moving onto the body. I made the sleeves, blocked them out and then worked out my gauge using my card instead of making a separate swatch. This kind of malarkey isn’t always possible, but I take advantage when it is!

I used screenshots from the following patterns in the image at the top of this post – thank you:

1. Mulled Cider Cowl by TL Yarn Crafts
2. Bandia Crochet Sweater by Bella Coco
3. 1 Piece V Stitch Pullover by MJ’s Off The Hook
4. Contessa Cropped Pullover by SincerelyPam